Getting fuzzy with Twig Farm's Fuzzy Wheel

Occasionally I'll buy a certain kind of cheese just because it has a fun name. Such is the case for Twig Farm's Fuzzy Wheel. I purposely did no research and asked no questions when I sent my order for this fun sounding fuzz from Formaggio Kitchen. I wanted to be totally surprised...and I was.

Twig Farm is a small goat farm in West Cornwall, Vermont and has been in operation since 2005. Owners Michael Lee and Emily Sunderman use traditional equipment and techniques to make their varieties of farmstead cheeses, forming them by hand and aging in their cheese cellar.

At first glance, this Fuzzy Wheel has an unassuming look, similar to a Tomme with its flecked edible rind and graduating paste. Unlike a typical Tomme, this semi-hard cheese has a "fuzzy" white mold covers the rind giving this cheese its name.

Moving in for the smell test may not have been the best idea. I am not sure if it is the fuzz or the blending of cow and goat milk, but this cheese produces a stench that is beyond stinky. To be honest, the rotting mushroom aroma almost kept me from tasting it, and I love stinky cheeses. Had I allowed the funky fragrance to deter me, I would have missed out on a truly tasty treat.

Getting past the funk, I took a small bite and was pleasantly surprised to find the flavor was nothing like the smell. Initial taste on the tip of the tongue is fresh and grassy, yet as it hits the taste buds toward the back, the assertive, earthy flavor wafts in one's mouth and builds to a savory peak. Light and creamy on the tongue, each bite gets better and better and paired with some red raspberries and a hefty glass of Cabernet, it is a fantastic fromage find.

Admittedly, I lucked out in this quirky find in Fuzzy Wheel. With the price of some cheeses costing as much as a three-course meal, playing roulette on selections can truly be a gamble. I was lucky this time and will probably do it again. I encourage everyone to give the wheel a spin sometime and see what the fates bring. (RK)

Cheese Resources I Recommend

As I wander through the ever-growing and expanding "World of Cheese", I discover websites and books that I find worthy of second looks or sharing. Here are a few of my favorites:

Websites:

American Cheese Society

Cowgirl Creamery Library of Cheeses

Murray's Cheese Shop

Artisanal Cheese

Pacific Northwest Cheese Project


Books:

Cheesemonger: Life on the wedge by Gordon Edgar

In a Cheesemaker's Kitchen by Allison Hooper

The Cheese Chronicles by Liz Thorpe

Cheese Primer by Steve Jenkins

World Cheese Book by Juliet Harbutt

Mastering Cheese by Max McCalman

Cheese Essentials by Laura Werlin

Artisan Cheese of the Pacific Northwest by Tami Parr

(MW)

It's time to fire up the panini press

April is National Grilled Cheese month and Wisconsin is leading the charge with this great website showcasing WI cheeses. They've got a bunch of different sandwiches listed including some pretty interesting ingredients like cauliflower and pineapple.

Does the grilled cheese sandwich deserve it's own month? For me the answer is a resounding YES! Grilled cheese and tomato soup are like salt and pepper or peanut butter and jelly, but I think that grilled cheese by itself has a deeper connection in our psyche. At least it does in mine.

Below:Asiago+Cheddar+oven roasted tomatoes=deliciousness!
For me it was the first thing I was allowed to cook on my own. My mother taught me how. I would get up on a stepstool and toast them in a skillet that had been liberally buttered. It was the perfect food. Warm, toasty, melty, gooey, salty and buttery. On nights when my mother was working late I would make grilled cheese sammies for my brother and me. We would sit in front of the television like zombies, him on the couch, me in the recliner eating our sandwiches and for a brief moment in time, I wasn't the older sister who tortured him and he wasn't my "stupid-head" "smelly" younger brother.

As I got older I expanded my culinary repertoire, but kept the grilled cheese sandwich in my top ten. And why not? It's a ridiculously easy to make lunch/dinner/hangover cure and is gentle on the wallet as I learned in college. To me, cheap ramen noodles could never be tastier than a grilled cheese made with an illegal hotplate and a cast iron skillet.

In culinary school the grilled cheese kept me going. When cramming for a bakery final that's going to start at 2am you need brain food. Grilled cheese to the rescue. The dining hall is closed and you're starving? Grilled cheese comes through once again.

Nowadays I work in a cheese shop. I feel it's my personal duty to find out which of our cheeses melt well, what they go well with and of course, how they taste. I use my hours of dedicated research and pass it along to our customers. Even though I love the stinky punchiness of Grayson I can tell you that even though it melts nicely, if you apply heat to this cheese your apartment will smell rather funky for several days. Fresh chevre may not melt quite the way Cheddar does, but you get a warm, squishy, goo that makes eating it messy, but immensely satisfying.

So what's your favorite grilled cheese? One of mine is pictured above. Asiago, Cheddar and oven roasted tomatoes. Who needs soup?

-AA

Representin' ACS!

On a recent trip to visit my sister and her family in Athens Ohio, I had the good fortune of meeting Chris Chmiel, Cheesemaker (among other things) at Integration Acres. My sister and brother in-law assured me that great cheese was being made in Ohio, and to prove it they took me to the Athens Farmer's Market on the first day of our visit. You can imagine how delighted I was when I saw a guy manning his booth and wearing an American Cheese Society t-shirt. Way to represent, dude!

That guy was Chris, and not only was he giving a shout-out to ACS via his t-shirt, but he was offering a selection of fresh goat's milk cheeses that would make anyone stand up and take notice. If you're a Euro cheese snob - which you probably aren't if you're reading this blog - but if you are, take a trip to Athens Ohio and try Integration Acres "Smokey Goat." I think you'll find it's as good an example of craftsmanship, creativity, and science as can be found.

Chris tells me he and his wife were recipients of an ACS scholarship to attend a previous annual conference, and I can honestly say that if his work is an indication of what a small Cheesemaker can achieve with a little support from ACS, then the scholarship program really is a huge success. Keep up the good work Chris - I look forward to a time when your cheese can make its way to Northern California!

Velveeta is Dead and Evidently It’s Mary Keehn’s Fault…

At least at one home in Portland, Oregon...

I work as a Cheese Steward and one of the best parts of the job is working with customers; especially the youngs ones who are our next generation of "foodies". I have met several who have left fond memories behind for me.

Mason and his parents were regulars in the first cheese kiosk where I worked and Mason was the cheese hound in the family. His parents let him sample and make the cheese choices every week. It was quite interesting to watch his reactions to the various cheeses he sampled. This kid had fearless tastebuds. One of his favorites was Rembrandt Aged Gouda and he proudly told me that he had asked Santa for a light saber and a wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano. On another occasion, his mom stopped by to buy Pecorino Romano becasue it was featured in a recipe on the Food Channel and Mason decided that was what he wanted for dinner. But my favorite memory of Mason happened when he decided he wanted to check out the Bries. We started with Fromager d'Affinois, then moved on the Brie de Nangis. Next we tried St. Albray and ended with Le Chatelaine. After a thoughtful moment, Mason chose the St. Albray. As he sat in the child seat of the food basket, I decided to ask the burning question, "Mason, how old are you?" He proudly replied, "Two and a half." I looked at his father who shregged and said, "He also likes caviar." Definitely a budding foodie.

Another young patron is Chadd, whose favorite cheeses are the blues; the stronger, the better. When he stops at the kiosk, I always ask him to try a new cheese and give me his opinions. For a sixteen year old, his palate is quite sophisticated. He knows what he likes and why; but he can also articulate quite well why he doesn't like a certain cheese. A recent email from him inquired if I knew where he might buy fresh goat milk. He had decided to make his own fresh chevre.

Last week I was assisting a mother in putting together a cheese platter for her twelve year old's slumber party. The daughter had requested cheese for snacking rather than junk food... my kind of kid. We began with Fromager d'Affinois, added Smoked Applewood Cheddar and a wedge of Beemster Vlaskaas. For the blue, we went with Oregonzola. As we were wrapping up our transaction, the mother stopped, looked at me sternly and said, "By the way, I don't like you." I was stunned... I thought things were going so well... then she laughed and added, "A few weeks back, you gave my daughter a sample of Humboldt Fog and ever since, it's been 'No more Velveeta in this house, Mom'".

We added Humboldt Fog to the platter. (MW)

A Day in Cheese Heaven: Experiencing a Formal Cheese Service

From New York's Artisanal Fromagerie, Bistro and Wine Bar to San Francisco's Gary Danko, more and more restaurants throughout the country are hiring fromagiers and offering luxurious cheese services.

What is a cheese service? The simple explanation is an offering of various farmstead and artisan cheeses served by an experienced fromagier who not only serves, but educates the guests on the selections, makes suggestions based on tastes and pairings.

I had the opportunity to experience a formal cheese service at L'Albatros Brasserie in Cleveland, Ohio and it was amazing. Open since 2008, owner Zack Bruell has created a simple yet inviting atmosphere of stark white table settings against exposed brick walls. Minimalist decor to say the least, but not cold.

General Manager, Brandon Chrostowski, is also a sommalier and fromagier and has a knowledge of cheese that can rival even the most experienced cheesemonger. When he presented a wooden tray with over fifteen selections of the most exquisite cheeses I had ever seen, I thought I had died and gone to fromage heaven. They all looked so amazing, I had no idea where to start.

While a good many of the cheeses were from across the pond, there were two stand-outs that had me at hello. Not surprising, both were Jasper Hill creations. The first was the Caspian, a goat cheese wrapped in grape leaves soaked in ice wine. The beautiful presentation was only the tip of the iceberg, as it were. The flavor of this rare little round was fresh and sweet, capturing all the wonderful qualities found in the best chevre and taking it to the next level. The second was the much praised Winnimere (pic above) which completely lived up to it's hype. Tangy and nutty with a bit of an assertive bite on the back of my tongue, I am completely in love.

Perfect wine pairings, witty conversation, and a surprise visit from Mr. Bruell were the icing on this exquisite experience. I will certainly be back again.

For those fortunate enough to be in the Cleveland area, I highly recommend experiencing the cheese service at L'Albartros Brasserie. For those sad souls outside the area, check the local restaurants for similar offerings. RK