From New York's Artisanal Fromagerie, Bistro and Wine Bar to San Francisco's Gary Danko, more and more restaurants throughout the country are hiring fromagiers and offering luxurious cheese services.
What is a cheese service? The simple explanation is an offering of various farmstead and artisan cheeses served by an experienced fromagier who not only serves, but educates the guests on the selections, makes suggestions based on tastes and pairings.
I had the opportunity to experience a formal cheese service at L'Albatros Brasserie in Cleveland, Ohio and it was amazing. Open since 2008, owner Zack Bruell has created a simple yet inviting atmosphere of stark white table settings against exposed brick walls. Minimalist decor to say the least, but not cold.
General Manager, Brandon Chrostowski, is also a sommalier and fromagier and has a knowledge of cheese that can rival even the most experienced cheesemonger. When he presented a wooden tray with over fifteen selections of the most exquisite cheeses I had ever seen, I thought I had died and gone to fromage heaven. They all looked so amazing, I had no idea where to start.
While a good many of the cheeses were from across the pond, there were two stand-outs that had me at hello. Not surprising, both were Jasper Hill creations. The first was the Caspian, a goat cheese wrapped in grape leaves soaked in ice wine. The beautiful presentation was only the tip of the iceberg, as it were. The flavor of this rare little round was fresh and sweet, capturing all the wonderful qualities found in the best chevre and taking it to the next level. The second was the much praised Winnimere (pic above) which completely lived up to it's hype. Tangy and nutty with a bit of an assertive bite on the back of my tongue, I am completely in love.
Perfect wine pairings, witty conversation, and a surprise visit from Mr. Bruell were the icing on this exquisite experience. I will certainly be back again.
For those fortunate enough to be in the Cleveland area, I highly recommend experiencing the cheese service at L'Albartros Brasserie. For those sad souls outside the area, check the local restaurants for similar offerings. RK
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